Luxembourg was at the heart of WW2, sandwiched between the French Maginot line and the German Siegfried line. Even though the Grand Duchy issued a proclamation of neutrality in 1939, on May 10th 1940, German troops entered the country. By noon, the capital city was occupied and many fled abroad, including the government and the monarchy (as I touch upon in my post about Grand Duchess Charlotte). Non-violent passive resistance was widespread, for example, the “Spéngelskrich” (the “War of Pins”) with Luxembourgers donning patriotic pin-badges. The country was annexed into Germany in 1942 until September 1944 when American soldiers arrived and liberated most of the country. Thousands of American GIs were temporarily stationed in Luxembourg for rest and recuperation, and the small country became known as a “paradise for weary troops.”
In December 1944, an American soldier named Richard W. Brookins was garrisoned in Wiltz. As Saint Nicholas Day neared, he and his fellow soldiers saw that almost five years of war had left Luxembourgers with very little to give their children. The soldiers pooled their rations and staged Saint Nicholas themselves; on 5th December, Brookins, paraded through Wiltz in a Jeep, distributing candy and chocolates. This gave birth to a tradition that has been observed in Wiltz ever since. He then became known as “The American St. Nick” and came to represent all of the Americans who helped defend Luxembourg from German forces.
In 1945, following the Battle of the Bulge (the name given to the military operations that took place in the Ardennes region during the winter of 1944/5), the Germans were wholly expelled.
Now, there are numerous sites around the country that mark the events of WW2 and commemorate the fallen, as well as museums that give an insight into what life was like at that time. Luxembourg has three official languages but after 1945, German lost it’s pre-war equal footing with French. The latter replaced it in much of public life – on street signs, as the language of legislation… This is why most street signs you see today are in French.
Museum of the Battle of the Bulge, Clervaux
This museum is housed in the Chateau de Clervaux, a 12th Century castle that was destroyed by fire itself during the battle. On display is an extensive collection of uniforms, weapons and munitions – cigarette packets, chewing gum, shipments of Hershey’s chocolate… There are also numerous documents, for example, a list of rules that Luxembourg citizens were provided by their occupiers.
General Patton museum
George S Patton was a general of the United States Army who commanded the US Seventh Army in the Mediterranean theatre of WW2 and the US Third Army in France and Germany after the Allied invasion of Normandy in June 1944. Tragically, after leading his troops to victory, he died in a road accident only shortly after the war had ended.
The museum dedicated to the memory of General Patton, lies in Ettelbruck, a town that Patton’s unit liberated on Christmas Day, 1944. The museum focuses on German occupation, the American liberation and the battle that took place in the skies over Luxembourg.
The American Cemetery
The American Cemetery comprises 17 acres of manicured lawn, where 5076 US soldiers were laid to rest. It is a place that offers a peaceful tribute to young soldiers who came so far and lost so much. Therein also lies General George S Patton.
The cemetery is free of charge and open to the public everyday from 9:00am until 5:00pm, except on December 25th and January 1st.
In Luxembourg It's Three 